Guerneville : Boon Eat +Drink

16248 Main Street, Guerneville, CA 95446. (707) 869-0780
http://eatatboon.com/

During my recent work trip, many of the locals were kind enough to offer restaurant recommendations. One place I kept hearing about repeatedly was Boon Eat + Drink. It was pricier than what my work per diem allowed but one of my coworkers and I decided to go check it out anyway. Yes, I know...I have champagne taste on a beer budget. ☺

We found this Guerneville hotspot easily enough. It was located in a small row of eateries on Main Street, just a couple doors down from an interesting looking cabaret/wine bar. It was quite small and bistroesque in nature. The whole restaurant consisted of about 10 tables (mostly deuces) along with two tables squeezed outside. We lucked out that there was a 2-top open when we arrived and the hostess was able to seat us immediately. Inside, there wasn't a lot of room to move about and it was a bit loud, but they make the chaos work somehow. I have to say, I loved the whimsical dog-catching-a-Frisbee wallpaper that decorated one wall. So cute! (I wanted to take a photo of it for you but the lighting was pretty dim in the restaurant. Sorry!)

Boon's menu was brief (a smattering of salads, small plates, and entrées) but ranged from dishes like grass-fed burgers with crispy truffle fries (and homemade ketchup and aioli), a decadent sounding mac-and-cheese, to a sublime-sounding polenta lasagna with mixed seasonal veggies and a spicy marinara. My coworker went with the mac and cheese with wild mushrooms topped with truffled bread crumbs; which she said was sinfully rich and oh so creamy. I opted to start with the grilled calamari salad with arugula, citrus segments, shaved fennel, castelvetrano olives and a lemon vinaigrette. The helping of squid was generous and the salad was delicious. The orange segments in my calamari salad really brightened the dish and it was nice to see calamari prepared in such a simple manner. The flavor and texture of the squid was able to shine through (I'm so over deep fried batter smothering my calamari). For my entrée, I went with the seared halibut with grape salsa over spicy black lentils and greens. The fish was cooked perfectly. The lentils, on the other hand, could have been cooked just a tad longer; nevertheless, the spicy kick of the lentils contrasted perfectly with the sweetness of the grapes - and I ate all of them.

Table service at Boon could be summed as mediocre. Our waiter was zooming around in high gear but it would have been nice had he checked back on us after we got our food to make sure everything was going smoothly. We had to flag him down whenever we needed something and it was a bit like trying to lasso Speedy Gonzalez.

Overall, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Boon Eat+Drink to friends if they're in the area. I love that they use seasonal produce to enhance their dishes. Everything I tasted during my visit was seasoned well and alive with flavor. (Don't worry about the calories, you can hike them off the next day at nearby Armstrong Redwoods State Preserve.) Next time, I'd love to take the time to sample some of the Russian River wines and beers on their list. My only recommendation to Boon Eat + Drink would be to invest in some air conditioning. Gah! It was incredibly warm inside the restaurant even with the doors open. I could see sweat glistening on surrounding patrons foreheads as well. No bueno.

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Ambience

6440 Fair Oaks Blvd., Carmichael, CA 95608. (916) 489-8464

There are several “great” places to eat in Sacramento. Likewise, there are several “romantic” places to eat in Sacramento. But unfortunately, there are very few great, romantic places to eat in our town. So when a friend mentioned Ambience I was a bit skeptical, especially since it seemed to be located smack dab in the middle of the ‘burbs in a (gulp!) strip-mall. Yes, you heard me correctly—a high end, romantic restaurant in a suburban strip-mall. This I had to see. So back around Christmas time, when Mr. S. and I decided to embark on a little kidlet-free staycation; we booked a table for deux at Ambience and a night at the Citizen.

I’ll just skip the suspense and let you know that my first experience at Ambience was phenomenal. Our server, Shaznod, proved that customer service is not dead and the food…man, oh man, I still dream about their lobster bisque! Now, I bet you’re wondering why it took me so long to write up a review of Ambience…wellllll, I’ll be honest, I’ve been touting the restaurant to all my close friends (and even a few strangers. Guy in the supermarket line, it was a pleasure chatting with you!) but before I wrote it up, I wanted to give it one more whirl to make sure that my exemplary experience there was not a delusion. So, I booked a table for a quiet Thursday night and talked two of my food-loving friends into trekking back out there with me. Amazingly, both the food and service were spot on again. So, it was time to get writing….

Ambience is located on Fair Oaks Boulevard in a stand-alone building surrounded by a non-descript strip mall. The interior décor is a bit minimalistic. There is wood flooring throughout and two rooms with damask covered booths and white table cloths. Also, small lights are interspersed through the dining area in an attempt to give the dining room a dark, intimate vibe. In my opinion, some simple pieces of artwork would soften the stark walls and add some overall warmth. Oddly enough, both times I visited the establishment there was only a handful of patrons and the adjacent rooms (where the non-booth tables were) were closed off to seating. Service from start to finish was impeccable. I love the fact that the staff is exceptionally knowledgeable about the various wines offered and versed in the dishes that are put out.

Please note, Ambience offers a prix fixe menu only. It’s a five course dinner for a flat $45 (tax and tip not included). There are 1-2 choices offered for the first course, 5 choices for the second, 1 (a soup) for the third, 5-6 choices (entrée) for the fourth and 4 choices (dessert) for the fifth. You get plenty of options but if you’re the high-maintenance type that likes to modify everything you eat, this probably isn’t the place for you. In addition, most of the entrées feature game meat of some sort; so, if you’re adhering to a vegetarian diet, I would not suggest visiting Ambience.

On my first visit, the dinner began with a spinach and gorgonzola cream gratin with Oaxaca cheese served in a mini-cocotte. It was delicious but really needed to be served with some bread or some other accompaniment that it could be spread upon.

For the second course, I opted for the foie gras on crisp, truffle oil crostini served with a sliced cinnamon burgundy poached pear, an asian pear puree and a sweet shallot chutney. Mmmm! Each bite was pure bliss!

For the third course, we were presented with a small bite of succulent seared lobster, surrounded by a pool of creamy lobster bisque and garnished with crème fraiche. Oh-my-god, I think my eyes rolled back into my head and my toes curled when the spoon hit my lips.

I think right about this time, Mr. S. commented about how although the portion size of the three courses we had ingested so far had appeared petite, he was getting a bit full. He was right, between eating “heavy” dishes and our waiter actually spacing our courses out in the proper manner so we could enjoy each dish fully; I too, was getting somewhat full and was eating a bit slower.

For my entrée, I decided upon the boneless, young New Zealand rib-eye of lamb coupled with a yam-potato puree and a stuffed tomato and apricot-mint glaze. The plating was exquisite and the dish itself was quite tasty; however, I actually preferred Mr. S.’s seared elk steak to my own entrée. The black wild rice his dish was served with imparted a deep, chocolaty aftertaste and the sautéed chard offered a nice contrast to the herb balsamic sauce drizzled upon the tender elk.

For dessert, we ordered the apricot-mango brûlée with fresh berries and the chocolate mousse and mousse cake duo. Both desserts were really rich and satiated my sweet tooth. Although by the time we reached our fifth course, we couldn’t manage more than a bite or two.

For my second visit, my dining companion ordered us a bottle of the Sobon Estate’s 2006 “Rezerve” Zinfandel. It was a decent wine; full-bodied and heavily laden with sweet fruit undertones. It had a dry finish and would have probably been a better match for a meat dish (I had a fish dish as my entrée.)

For my starter, I elected to go with figs stuffed with goat cheese and melted with an apricot balsamic glaze. Much to my dismay, the server informed our table that although the dish was still being offered; they were unfortunately out of apricots for the evening. The figs arrived (sans apricots) with a simple balsamic glaze and were warm and delectable; however, the goat cheese was mysteriously MIA.

Second course, same as the first! (Just kidding! The Herman’s Hermits’ tune, “Henry the VIII, I Am,” popped into my head for some reason). For round two, I selected the Hawaiian ahi tuna trio served with tomato-ginger coulis, cilantro oil, pine nuts and a spicy green tobiko. The fish was fresh tasting and was a perfect follow up to the heavy figs. In addition, I was also able to wangle a taste of my dining companion’s beef tartar (topped with quail egg and truffle oil vinaigrette). The beef had a great texture to it and seemed to melt in my mouth.

Next, all three of us were served an asparagus purée as a palate cleanser. The purée was nice and light and garnished with a touch of crème fraiche; but I was a bit disappointed that they weren’t still serving the heavenly lobster bisque from my previous visit. Yes, I may have even pouted a little….

For my main course, I went with the grilled orange roughy on dill potato gnocchi and organic white corn kernels; garnished with cherry tomatoes, dill butter and white wine lemon sauce. The fish was cooked to perfection and I enjoyed the mélange of flavors on the plate.

Last but definitely not least, I closed out my culinary adventure with a superb Baked Alaska. They didn’t do the theatrics of a flambé at the table but the dessert still receives top marks in my book. I’m not really keen on decadent desserts (I’m more of a savory girl) but I ate every bite of the scrumptious meringue and creamy ice cream that night and had sweet dreams.

To sum it up, Ambience exudes a quiet, elegance that’s hard to find in most Sacramento restaurants. It focuses on perfecting the chief components of an amazing restaurant: atmosphere, courteous and attentive service, good value and impressive, flavorful food. Check, check, check and…check! Despite the location being less than desirable (I wish it was in the grid), we’ll definitely be returning to Ambience for future nights out on the town. Hope to see you there!

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Masons - CLOSED

1116 15th Street, Sacramento, CA 95814.  (916) 492-1960

There’s nothing I hate more than wasting good money on bad food. That being said Masons…what a complete and total let down. Just shortly after my visit, the Wong family announced that they would be closing Masons and I can’t say I’m too surprised. If you were rating a restaurant on aesthetics alone I’m sure Masons would fare well with it’s hip furniture, coifed staff and trendy West Elm color scheme…but when you get down to it are you willing to hand over your hard earned cash to choke down food that exudes as much flavor as an actual West Elm catalog?

My recent visit to Masons was during Dine Downtown Week. Some will disagree with me, but I’ve always thought that DDW is a perfect opportunity for a restaurant to showcase what they’re all about and to lure in some new clientele; but I’ve found that more often than not, most restaurants fail to seize this opportunity. Anyhow my dining partner, Mr. S., was curious to explore Masons and see if there was any validity to the hype so off we went.  Reservations were easy enough through opentable.com but upon checking in at the hostess desk we were informed that our table was not ready and were directed to the bar. A cursory glance in the dining room showed several open tables. Strike one…I hate when you make a reservation, are on time and are not promptly sat. What’s the point of making a reservation if you end up having to wait anyway?

Mr. S. escorted me to the bar and excused himself to check out the lavatory (if you get a chance, do duck in there and check out the one-way mirror—it can be quite entertaining). Sitting at the glossy bar, I was left to attempt to try and flag down the bartender who was more interested in fixing his perfectly tousled, highlighted locks than attending to his one lone patron. His obvious annoyance at my request for a drink was evident. When I inquired what types of scotch they carried, I was answered with a silent wave over his shoulder to the backlit bar wall. I’m no bespectacled granny but sitting at the bar just a few feet from the bottles, I could barely make out the various liquor labels so I went with what I knew. Once I got my drink, a Macallans 18, let’s just say the pour was unmistakably small. Strike two. Finally after fifteen minutes of watching the bartender adjust his bangs in the mirror, we were finally escorted to our table. The table was flanked by two chairs on one end and a small robin’s egg blue cushioned bench on the other. Since the hostess had taken the liberty to place both menus on the side with the bench, Mr. S.  and I arranged ourselves there. What seems like a romantic idea, in actuality is the most uncomfortable way to sit and hold a conversation in a restaurant. We found ourselves having to contort our bodies so that we were perched sideways on a stiff cushion in an awkward half turn. To be honest, I’m not even sure that the acrobats from Cirque de Soleil could have made themselves comfortable on that bench.

As for our server, she was nice enough…when we saw her. In a half empty restaurant, she was MIA for the better part of the night. After a significant lapse in time, she popped up to take our order and to inform us that one of the dessert choices, a “french toast crème brulee” was no longer being offered…duly noted. I opted to start with a glass of their Kung Fu Girl Riesling (I’ll admit I ordered it solely for the whimsical name) and as a first course, the linguine carbonara with housemade pancetta and shaved grana.  Mr. S. went with a baby spinach and winter citrus salad. I found the carbonara to be gluey and cold. I noticed that Mr. S., an ardent salad lover, to be listlessly pushing his salad around the plate so I snuck a taste…not just was it overly bitter but the olives seemed to be an odd pairing for a citruscentric salad.

First course completed, plates cleared and I still hadn’t received my wine….hmmmm. For the second course, I decided to go with the slow roasted beef short rib and Mr. S., a bit more adventurous than I, went with the fancily named Ecuadorian white prawn cioppino (a dish which holds a place on Masons’ regular menu). The cioppino was touted to consist of a Spanish chorizo-tomato compote and saffron-lobster broth. Sounds exotic and delectable, right? Well, it was everything but…the broth lacked flavor and Mr. S gagged a bit when he got a bad mussel. My ribs were fatty and stringy simultaneously although the horseradish potato puree was decent…but then so are Betty Crocker’s instant garlic mashed potatoes and I can get those for a fraction of the cost that these spuds cost me.  Oh yes, my wine…don’t let me forget that…like my server did. Halfway through our second course, she did pop by to inquire about our dishes and to ask whether we “would like something to drink.” I had to bite my tongue to not retort with a flippant, “Yes, the wine I ordered when I sat down,” but having a mom who instilled good manners in me as a young child, I smiled politely and inquired about my forgotten wine. I shouldn’t have bothered. The Kung Fu Girl Riesling had no kick and was oddly reminiscent to a glass of Two Buck Chuck I had recently been subjected to at a house party.  Strike three, Masons…and you’re out.

Having not been punished enough, we foraged ahead into the third course…dessert. Mr. S. went with a cheesecake with a viscous like huckleberry compote and I requested some sort of chocolate cake with an embellished name.  We opted to get the desserts to go and surprisingly when we dove into them later in the comfort of my abode, they weren’t bad.  They were no Jacques Torres creation but definitely the highlight of this meal.

So you win some and you lose some and in this case our visit to Masons was a total bust. Rumor has it that the owners are slapping a revamp on the place and will be converting it to a “comfort food” restaurant (which seems all the rage these days) by the name of Cafeteria 15L. My opinion on this impending transformation? To borrow a quote from our current president, “You can put lipstick on a pig, but it’s still a pig,”…meaning, you can slap some new paint on an eatery, change the light fixtures and fiddle with the menu but in my experience if the food’s bad, it’s bad and no amount of “lipstick” is going to fix that “pig.”

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Formoli's

3260 J Street, Sacramento, CA 95816. (916) 448-5699
Moving to new location end of May 2011- 3839 J Street

While contemplating how to articulate my first experience at Formoli's, a saying of Julia Child's repeatedly popped into my head, "You don't have to cook fancy or complicated masterpieces-just good food from fresh ingredients." Formoli's did exactly that and surpassed my expectations for a restaurant that had been open a mere ten days. Now take note, Formoli's is inconspicuously tucked away in the same strip mall as the Raven. The restaurant itself is small and narrow- more conducive for an intimate dinner than a large gathering. Despite the limited amount of room to work with, the owners have thoughtfully taken the time to make sure each painstakingly small detail from floor to ceiling is perfect and lends itself to the overall ambiance. Above you, the fluorescent lighting is masked by billowy swags of fabric and in it's place to illuminate are tasteful sconces. The warm walls are accented with various interesting works of art. Each table is outfitted with a small Moroccanesque candle and a single delicate, green cymbidium orchid floating in the water.

Upon entering, we were greeted quickly and ushered to a nearby open table. I found the staff to be both welcoming and attentive. Our server was quite knowledgeable and eager to ensure a pleasant dining experience. To start with, she recommended an excellent Tempranillo wine. I appreciated that she took the care to listen to what types of qualities I actually like in wines before selecting two that might be of interest to me, as opposed to automatically recommending the most expensive one on the list. She even brought over a sampling to make sure that I liked it before I finalized my decision, a nice touch which was appreciated- in fact, it made my dining companion decide to order a glass of the same.

We were then given the perfect amount of time to peruse the menu; which is broken up into- small plates, salad, burgers/sandwiches and entrees. The entrees section is a bit limited (I think it only listed a duck dish and two specials) but I think that worked out for the better as the small dishes are what really stand out here. Being a typical Libra, choosing what to order has always been a dilemma for me. Luckily my dining companion, Amanda, was game for ordering several small dishes and sharing. Although the stuffed dates and seared scallop dishes both sounded enticing and there was a tasty gazpacho that caught my eye, we opted to go with the calamari, yam frites, the Portabello mushroom and the ahi.

The calamari was sauteed perfectly and served tentacles and all upon a bed of greens and accented with endive leaves. The bite-sized pieces were tender, unbreaded (yum!) and not overly chewy. The yam frites were hands down my favorite dish of the evening. Cut in long thin stalks, the sweet yams were lightly sprinkled with sea salt and ground pepper and accompanied by a scrumptious paprika aioli. The paprika aioli balanced out the sweetness of the yams well and gave it a nice subtle kick of spiciness, only noticeable in the aftertaste. In fact, I contemplated stabbing Amanda with my fork to nab the last few bites of yam frites...luckily, I was able to restrain myself. The Portabello mushroom dish was okay. The Portabello was stacked pancake style and layered with (asiago?) cheese and thinly sliced domestic mushrooms, similar in fashion to a pastry. As for the seared ahi, it was the only dish that didn't wow me. Don't get me wrong, it wasn't awful and we did eat it but it was oversalted and the ahi was very tender. Additionally, the paired sauce resembled guacamole both in color and in taste and did little to enhance anything about the ahi. I ended up scraping off what I could of the seasoning and dipping the ahi in the paprika aioli that came with the yam frites. Yes, paprika aioli makes everything taste good...it's like the ketchup of the Mediterranean.

Anyhow, any regrets in ordering the ahi were soon forgotten with my first bite of dessert- a crema catalana. Our server described it as a Spanish creme brulee and the description was quite accurate, although I found it not to be as rich or as heavy as regular creme brulee and the caramelized sugar topping was slightly softer and not quite as crisp. The crema catalana satiated my sugar craving and I found the slight ginger taste to be refreshing - an excellent after dinner palate cleanser.

As we were finishing up, the chef came by to introduce himself and to check on our dining experience which was a nice touch. In reflection, I feel- the ahi aside, Formoli's definitely has it's flavors dialed in. In addition, I found their service, to be equally friendly and efficient. I'm looking forward to more enjoyable dinners at Formoli's and am curious to see what it evolves into. Hopefully, they'll find their niche in Sacramento and perhaps even push the envelope with some regional dishes that are unfamiliar to the Sac food scene or offer up some innovative creations of their own.

- 2/2011

It's almost 3 years later and I'm still religiously dining at Formoli's. The food they put out continues to wow me and the service never fails to be friendly. The menu has expanded and changes regularly but every dish I've ordered since that first visit has been wonderful. If you can, order the scallops...the accompaniment may vary from a carrot puree to greens depending on the season, but the scallops are always cooked perfectly with a nice seared top. Also, give the whiskey burger a whirl- it's hands down the best burger in Sacramento, without a doubt. The whiskey demi-glace and habanero aioli will have you licking your fingers in an unladylike fashion.

(interior of new location)

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Tuli Bistro - CLOSED

Tuli's Salumi Pizza

 

2031 S St, Sacramento, CA 95814, (916) 451-8854

On a recent cold and wet Sacramento night, exhausted from dealing with the holiday crowds, a friend and I braved the elements and made our way to the Tuli Bistro. Upon entering, we were greeted by warm wafts of pizza from the wood-fire oven tucked behind the counter and a cheery staff member. We were given a choice of dining at one of the bistro tables or on the enclosed veranda. The restaurant itself is long and narrow and care was taken to accent the small space with tasteful decorations. Although the outdoor seating was equipped with heat lamps, we opted to dine in the cozy dining area.

Our waitress Jennifer (?) came by and brought us the night's menu and wine list. She explained that as a new establishment they were still fiddling with the menu and experimenting as to which dishes to keep. The wine list had a decent selection, with a potpourri of choices. Unfortunately, they were out of both of our first two selections but Jennifer suggested an alternative that she thought we might enjoy and offered to bring us a taste. With our beverage orders placed, we turned our attention to the night's menu. The menu was short but sweet, reflecting a smattering of salads, pizzas and small entrees. As my dinner companion had never experienced beets before, I voted that we go for the beet salad. The salad was perfect--fresh with a hint of subtle sweetness. And the beet virgin became an immediate beet convert. For our main courses, my fellow Yelper went with a piping hot personal sized pizza called the Humboldt and I elected to try the ahi puttanesca. The ahi was a bit on the salty side and I felt that the kalamata olives lended an odd aftertaste to the sauce; somehow the two just didn't jive together well. Overall, the dish was satisfactory but nothing to write home about. My friend's pizza on the other hand was quite tasty. The Humboldt's thin crust was crisp without being overdry and the toppings (herb pesto, mozzarella, oven-dried tomatoes, and feta) intermingled harmoniously. Although I'm lactose intolerant, the pizza looked so damn good that I threw caution to the wind and danced with the devil I call dairy.

Throughout our meal, Jennifer routinely stopped by to check in on us as did the other waitress working the floor. We were well cared for from start to finish- plates were cleared smoothly, water glasses were kept filled and there was never a feeling of being rushed. The staff members seemed to relish working there and were eager to assist. My dining companion and I were having such a great time chatting that we decided to stay a bit longer and indulge in splitting a dessert. I'm not sure if Tuli makes their desserts in house but the lemon creme brulee that night was divine. As someone who's prepared many a brulee in her lifetime (all those years waiting tables), I know how easy it is to overtorch. Our brulee was crispy perfection.

As a resident of Midtown, it's great to see more and more independently owned neighborhood restaurants open up. Adam Pechal's done a great job converting the small quarters into a warm, inviting eating establishment. I've heard they do a bustling lunchtime business but I think Tuli is better enjoyed on a quiet, weeknight. You get attentive service and can indulge in a relaxing meal. The entree prices are a bit high but as they are using fresh, local ingredients and are a small business, I can see how they need to charge a little more to cover their overhead. Hopefully in time, they'll expand their dinner menu as I'd like add Tuli into my regular rotation of Midtown eateries. I do have to admit though that I raised an eyebrow when a well-meaning coworker advised me that the term "tuli" refers to a ritual circumsion in the Phillipines. Ouch!

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Ella Dining Room and Bar

1131 K St, Sacramento, CA 95814, (916) 443-3772

I may be the lone voice of dissent on this restaurant, but here it goes...After all the hype, all I can say about Ella is that it failed to deliver & I walked away quite disappointed with the experience. Upon setting foot in the door, I wasn't sure if I had walked into Selland's new venture or the discarded set of an Alice in Wonderland filming. It appeared that the proprietor decided to go with an eclectic hodge podge design of white wrap-around billowing curtains that went from floor to ceiling lending an institutional look to the establishment, along with a multitude of shutters covering the ceiling...yes, the ceiling. Appearances aside, the initial impression of the service left a lot to be desired. There were two ladies working the front desk & neither bothered to look up & offer a greeting to our party of three. It wasn't until one of my dining companions finally took a step forward & advised that we had a reservation that we were acknowledged. And by acknowledged, it was a brisk , "Follow me," no "Hello, "Welcome," or "Thanks for waiting." Now granted the place was busy for a Wednesday night, I still believe when one takes the time out beforehand to make a reservation; it should merit a decent table. Instead, we were unceremoniously plopped down at a high-traffic area table that was also just a few mere feet away from the hostess stand & bar. In addition, the restaurant has a cavernous, echoic feel. My friend was sitting just on the other side of the table & I couldn't hear a single word she said during the evening without one or the other of us shouting. A lot of the conversation during the night amongst the three of us went like, "What?" "Did you say something?" "Were you talking to me?" It also probably didn't help matters, that there was a very intoxicated woman in the bar that kept yelling & clomping down her stiletto like a braying mule.

Our server, Darren, was the one of the few bright spots of the night. He was attentive, friendly & offered recommendations. We started off requesting the citrus poached prawns; however, the expeditor brought out the grilled prawns with creole barbeque sauce instead. When we pointed out the error, he smoothly advised us to keep the wrong order on the house & he would have the correct dish brought out shortly...he followed through & the citrus prawns were quite tasty. They were served cold with a sauce that appeared to have a "bite" at the finish. The Creole BBQ prawns, on the other hand, were quite lackluster and made me glad that we weren't shelling out the $13 for it. Next, we moved on to the baked oysters. Word of advice? Don't. I think we're still kicking ourselves that we didn't opt for the raw oysters in the half shell. The baked oyster starter reminded me of one of those heavy cheese covered dishes at TGI Friday's. There was so much cheese slathered on there that one had no idea what kind of mystery seafood he/she was ingesting. The lackluster oysters were followed by the heirloom tomato & burrata cheese salad...now I have no problem throwing down for a good meal but $9.50 for half a tomato? Are you kidding me? That tomato better do magic tricks.

At this point in the meal, all three of us were a bit glum that we had chosen Ella's for our night out. So far it had amounted to mediocre food at NYC prices. Maybe our fairy godmothers felt sorry for us because at this point, Darren brought out a scrumptious plate of baby beets. This was my favorite dish of the night. I was seriously thinking of ditching my dinner order and just ordering another round of the delectable beets. But as they say hindsight is 20/20. My friends both went for the NY strip & were quite content with their choices. I chose the road less traveled...but unlike Browning, I came to regret my decision. Prior to placing our entree orders I vacillated between the duck & the rack of lamb. Both sounded divine. The server assured me both dishes were wonderful, he even noted that normally he did not enjoy duck but he liked Ella's version of the quacker. So I went with the fowl. Bad choice... the most common mistake with duck is that it's overcooked and dry. Well, Ella's version was quite moist...but the dish lacked any flavor whatsoever. Our conscientious server came by & inquired about our dinners. When he got a sad shrug from me he immediately offered to replace the dish with another entree. I declined as I had eaten most of the swiss chard and figs by then and my dining companions were almost done. Moments later the mgr/sommelier came by making the same gracious offer. When I declined again, he politely advised that dessert would be on the house. Although not needed, it was a thoughtful gesture on his part. At our waiter's urging we split a chocolate & macadamia nut cake. Overall, our server did a great job of trying to iron out the wrinkles of the evening, but even his super service could not convince me that Ella's fare justifies its upscale pricing.

8/2012- Update

An update. we went to Ella's Saturday night for dinner with some friends. Setting my opinions from 10/07 aside, I really wanted to like it this go round. I love Selland's and The Kitchen, plus Ella had recently hired a new head chef so I was going in with an open mind. To avoid being seated in a high traffic area under an air vent like last time, I made reservations and requested a nice table near a window or a booth. When we arrived the hostess sat us at a nice booth in the rear of the restaurant, where it was quiet. For our starter, Mr.S. and I split the steak tartare which was delicious-it was finely minced, had a nice subtle hint of french mustard and was paired with a fresh egg and a few torn garlic popovers. Both of us liked it. For our main courses, Mr.S went with the pan seared tuna and caponata (a cooked vegetable salad made of roasted eggplants, squash, tomato and raisin caper puree). He commented that the tuna was seared perfectly (rare) but was quite a small portion for nearly $30. I had opted for  the salmon which came served over a helping of succotash. The salmon was tender but the succotash was slightly mushy. Overall, we both liked our meals although they weren't anything exceptional. The disappointment for the evening was mainly concerning the service. We had three different servers that night and it was like a page from Goldilocks and the Three Bears. Our first waitress (a very tall redhead) seemed annoyed that we were even seated at her table and treated us like we were an awful hindrance to her evening. She appeared to be one step away from rolling her eyes every time we ordered anything. At one point, she stepped on Mr.S.'s foot extremely hard and didn't say anything. Not a pleasant dining experience. Luckily for us, her shift ended or something to that like because we were handed off to a friendly waiter (young, African-American gentleman with glasses), he was absolutely wonderful. Super personable and on top of everything. As we edged towards the end of our meal, he checked back with us a few times but we were mainly assisted by a petite brunette waitress who was friendly. She took care of our after dinner drink orders and our check.

Later that evening, Mr.S. and I had a conversation about the dinner at Ella's and decided we probably won't go back, although we'll still continue to dine at Selland's and The Kitchen. For a $220+ meal for four, it just wasn't up to standards, we would rather spend the money at Mulvaney's or Waterboy.

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Waterboy

2000 Capitol Ave, Sacramento, CA 95814, (916) 498-9891

Since my Thursday night dining excursion, I've been pondering whether the Waterboy is slipping a bit... it's always been one of my all time favorite Sacramento restaurants but on my last visit, it failed to be the specimen of culinary pleasure that I've come to expect over the years.

I ended up getting there a bit earlier then my dining companions and although I was seated promptly, it was a good ten minutes before I was asked if I would like to order a drink. Not a good way to start off the meal, especially when there were only two or three tables occupied and being busy wasn't an excuse.

We had one friend flake, so I got to dine with two handsome men by myself. Lucky me! ;-) My dining companions and I ended up starting off dinner with the Running Tigers Syrah and two appetizers- the steak tartare and the sauteed sweetbreads. The syrah was on the full-bodied side and if I wasn't mistaken, flaunting a hint of spiciness. The Niman Ranch steak tartar came with shoestring like herb fries, although tasty, proved to be quite difficult to scoop the tartare with. We ended up dipping the fries in the sapid aioli (the condiment being an unanimous table favorite) and using our dinner bread for the tartare in true peasant fashion. The sauteed veal sweetbreads were scrumptious; the rich marsala danced on my tongue in a happy jig...the bacon, mushrooms and tomatoes intertwined themselves in a delicate union of sweet, tangy and smooth flavor simultaneously enhancing the succulent veal treat. Had I not been accompanied by two gentlemen, I would most definitely been sopping up the remnants of the sauce with my bread, in an unladylike manner.

For our second course, we opted to pair our entrees with a bottle of the Whitehall Lane cabernet. Out of the two wines that we ordered, I much preferred this one. The Whitehall Lane was fruit-like and exhibited an extremely smooth finish. (Its heady vapors coupled with its intense ruby hue was mesmerizing, just the type of wine that would be a perfect recommendation for a luxurious, romantic dinner date.) My dining companions chose to order the night's fish special and the rack of lamb. I took the road less traveled and decided upon the Seared Dayboat Scallops. Though designed more for aesthetics then to satiate one's hunger, these scallops were divine. The plump seafood medallions were not overcooked in the least. Coupled with a tomato-saffron risotto that was could stand on its own merits, the dish was "all that and a bag of chips." The garnish of miniature pickled beet wedges, I could have done without.

We concluded with a chocolat tart and a glass each of the Lagavulin 16 year scotch. The scotch tasted a bit "off" to my palate and the dessert, which I only indulged in a bite of, came across as lackluster. To be honest, I can safely say that I've had better tarts from Bel-Air.

Throughout our dinner, we received exemplary service from the secondary service staff (the busboy and the server's assistant). On the other hand, our server was courteous but at times, I felt as though she came across as impatient and distracted. Additionally, she kept fiddling with the blinds behind our table throughout the evening which I found a bit distracting.

Overall, the experience was enjoyable...just not as exemplary as I recall it being. Perhaps it was an off night for the establishment, but with Sacramento slowly becoming populated with high end, fine dining options they need to be more consistent or else they may start losing their loyal customer base.

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Mulvaney's B & L

 

(Mulvaney's Pig Roast Event)

1215 19th St, Sacramento, CA 95814, (916) 441-6022
http://mulvaneysbl.com/

While trapped on a plane, I once read a funny quote by author, Frederic Raphael, in which he stated, "Great restaurants are, of course, nothing but mouth brothels. There is no point in going to them if one intends to keep one's belt buckled." And after eating at Mulvaney's, one would definitely have to loosen his or her belt in satisfaction of a truly great meal. As someone who has worked both the front and back of the house in the restaurant industry, I'm a strong believer that service in a dining establishment is as equally important as the food itself. Mulvaney's hits the bullseye on both counts. The service was superb and the food blew me away.

Mulvaney's Artisan Cheese Platter with Fig Jam

I got there a bit earlier than my dining companions and was surprised to be greeted immediately at the door by a warm smile and friendly welcome from the hostess. She checked me in and asked if I'd like to be seated or to wait in the bar. I opted for the bar. Yes, I know...typical Ally. The bartender was terrific and I wish I had inquired what his name was. He had such an upbeat attitude and genuine smile. He was helpful in my selection of a chardonnay (great rec-- the Hook and Ladder chardonnay) and spent some time answering my questions about the night's menu. He was so enthusiastic about the night's offerings that it made it hard for me to decide what I wanted because EVERYTHING sounded so good after chatting with him.

Front of the Restaurant

Our server, Taryn, was terrific. She was knowledgeable about the menu, efficient and quite personable. I loved the fact that she remembered small details (like my food allergy) and was able to make suggests to adapt the dishes so that I could partake in them. Never once did she make us feel rushed despite the fact that it was a full house. We began with a tasty amuse bouche of asparagus wrapped in proscuitto with a hint of balsamic vinegar...delicious! Such a simple dish, but it gave you a sneak peek at how Mulvaney's allows its seasonal produce to speak for itself.

We continued our food journey with the house smoked salmon appetizer and a soft New Zealand Pinot. The salmon was smooth in flavor and served with a thick, squishy soda bread and a creme fraiche. My dining companions opted for the halibut and the chicken with biscuits respectively and were kind enough to swap bites. The chicken was roasted perfectly and enveloped in a deliciously crackley skin and accompanied by asparagus and homemade biscuits. The halibut was a first-rate contender. Not overcooked in the least and joined by flavorful looking beans and a light salad. Each dish was presented exquisitely. Myself? I chose the ribeye with fig butter, sans the bleu cheese. I asked for medium-well and the grill cook was spot on. The meat was tender and savory and did a phenomenal job of appeasing my desire for a worthy piece of red meat. The quarter cut roasted potatoes were robust and balanced the tart greens with almonds.

Sea Scallops with Watermelon Salsa Fresca & Green Tea Soba Noodles

If that wasn't enough, we topped off our evening with two desserts...yesssss! Count them DOS desserts. One was a decadent chocolately piece of heaven that resembled a childhood treat--ding dongs. The latter, a bananas foster with vanilla ice cream. The bananas were swimming in a pool of ambrosial delight concocted from brown sugar and dark rum. Our bill was presented to us in a bound book and we were told to feel free to express ourselves and leave a written comment.

By the end of the meal, my arteries were screaming, "God save me!" whereas, my stomach was doing backflips in gratitude. Mulvaney's strives for perfection with it's gastronomical delights and comes through with flying colors. I'll definitely be returning...after I buy a bigger belt.

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